Runboard.com
Слава Україні!

runboard.com       Sign up (learn about it) | Sign in (lost password?)

Page:  1  2  3 

 
Slimboyfat Profile
Live feed
Blog
Friends
Miscellaneous info

Registered user

Registered: 11-2006
Posts: 129
Karma: 4 (+4/-0)
Reply | Quote
Re: Top wishbone.


After swapping wishbone and making shim adjustments; I now have, asymmetric bracket, Short wishbone, Long bottom arm and 'C' knuckle set-up on both sides.
This gives me 0.2 deg of negative camber on LHS and 0.5 deg of positive camber on RHS.
Do I need to make new shims to enable same angle on both sides or is this close enough?
12/11/2018, 10:09 pm Link to this post Send Email to Slimboyfat   Send PM to Slimboyfat
 
PPL Profile
Live feed
Blog
Friends
Miscellaneous info

Registered user

Registered: 03-2007
Posts: 114
Karma: 3 (+3/-0)
Reply | Quote
Re: Top wishbone.


Hi,

You have a good combination of parts for your front suspension. Knuckles type C is OK. They were originally introduced with the Dunlop calipers and are designed to be used with the first type of tie rods (short type).

I had to dig into my old notes to retrieve the settings I used.

Let me first tell you that the suspension of my car has been modified (has been lowered by ~20 mm) and so what worked for my car does not mean it can be applied to all other ones.

Here are my current settings (no handling issue):

Toe in/out: 0 mm
Caster: 3,125° (left and right)
Camber: 0° (left) and 0,35° (right) . No driver, no passenger.
Camber: 0,75° (left) and 0,60° (right). 80kg on driver side (LHD) applied at door level next to the driver seat

On front side my tires are 185x60 are they are worn evenly.

Based on my experience, I believe that your settings are fine.

Now, there is something very important you should envision: bump steer setting.
You will need to build or buy a special tool for this.
This is a very time consuming job, but believe me, it can dramatically improve road handling. You will get a safe handling on bumpy roads, straight roads, and in long radius turns.

Bump steer setting is adjusted by fitting shims under the steering box. Must be done separately on each side. You have to lock steering to get accurate results.
On my car, toe out slightly increases on bump (when the suspension is compressed) in order to give less grip, and toe out slightly decreases on rebound to increase the grip.
I have been told that race cars are generally set for zero toe variation, but the settings I used are safer for the casual driver.
And you will see that it is impossible to get zero variation all across the suspension travel...

Hope this helps


Last edited by PPL, 12/12/2018, 9:00 am
12/12/2018, 8:51 am Link to this post Send Email to PPL   Send PM to PPL Blog
 
hondas800 Profile
Live feed
Blog
Friends
Miscellaneous info

Head Administrator

Registered: 08-2005
Posts: 803
Karma: 3 (+4/-1)
Reply | Quote
Re: Top wishbone.


Just a comment Peter Rose made to me...

He said that a good road set up was zero toe in and zero camber angle - in other words 0 degrees all round.

I wasn't aware that the bump steer could be adjusted!
12/12/2018, 11:16 pm Link to this post Send Email to hondas800   Send PM to hondas800
 
Slimboyfat Profile
Live feed
Blog
Friends
Miscellaneous info

Registered user

Registered: 11-2006
Posts: 129
Karma: 4 (+4/-0)
Reply | Quote
Re: Top wishbone.


Bump Steer, OMG something else to stress about!!!
Finally finished my suspension set up. Whilst trying for a 0deg result on tracking and camber, I've managed to set the tracking ok but the camber has been more of a challenge.
Shims on the LHS are 2 Honda ones which measure 2.3mm each. LHS has 1 shim at 0.8mm, custom made. The RHS originally had 3 shims @ 2.3mm each which gave massive positive camber.
I can't believe someone actually drove around with this set up and managed to keep the car on the road....
My first drive ever, after years of restoration was great, about 1 mile haha, the front end felt as if it needed constant, although not major, input from me to maintain a smooth path.
After driving modern cars, am I being too fussy?
12/15/2018, 11:29 am Link to this post Send Email to Slimboyfat   Send PM to Slimboyfat
 
Slimboyfat Profile
Live feed
Blog
Friends
Miscellaneous info

Registered user

Registered: 11-2006
Posts: 129
Karma: 4 (+4/-0)
Reply | Quote
Re: Top wishbone.


Typo error.
Sorry should read 'RHS has 1 shim @ 0.8mm.'
12/16/2018, 11:38 am Link to this post Send Email to Slimboyfat   Send PM to Slimboyfat
 
HONDAPETE2 Profile
Live feed
Blog
Friends
Miscellaneous info

Registered user

Registered: 09-2005
Location: London
Posts: 591
Karma: 6 (+7/-1)
Reply | Quote
Re: Top wishbone.


Have you got any slack in the rack or joints? What size tyres are you running? They are not like a modern car but should not be that nervous, what shocks have you got? are they set too stiff.
12/17/2018, 3:10 pm Link to this post Send Email to HONDAPETE2   Send PM to HONDAPETE2
 
Slimboyfat Profile
Live feed
Blog
Friends
Miscellaneous info

Registered user

Registered: 11-2006
Posts: 129
Karma: 4 (+4/-0)
Reply | Quote
Re: Top wishbone.


Tyres are 165.70.13 on 5.5J Minilite rims. Shocks are original, not sure of make. New track rod ends, ball joints, stripped, cleaned and tightened to remove excessive play. This was my first 'road trip, so I'll check for play in the joints again now.
12/17/2018, 9:11 pm Link to this post Send Email to Slimboyfat   Send PM to Slimboyfat
 
robathfc Profile
Live feed
Blog
Friends
Miscellaneous info

Registered user

Registered: 02-2013
Posts: 53
Karma: 2 (+2/-0)
Reply | Quote
Re: Top wishbone.


Hello slimboyfat
Had the same problem as you 3 - 4 years ago renewed the top and bottom ball joints,track rod ends,radius rod bushings and stabiliser bushes and the car was tracked up at a tyre shop - only a small improvement in the driving.
I then pulled out the steering rack and put some small packers in this improved the drive but not perfect so once again the rack came out and bigger packers put in ,this time it was a big difference but not perfect .
The ball joints on my rack now are stiff but not as stiff as say a new track rod end ball joint when sometime you have to use a lot of force to move them ,so next time the rack comes out I'll give it a bit more .
This is what I did and it worked ( not perfect ) but it worked .
Just going into the garage to get my tin hat as I can see some flack coming about messing around ( packing ) the steering rack .
Good luck
12/18/2018, 11:27 am Link to this post Send Email to robathfc   Send PM to robathfc Blog
 
HONDAPETE2 Profile
Live feed
Blog
Friends
Miscellaneous info

Registered user

Registered: 09-2005
Location: London
Posts: 591
Karma: 6 (+7/-1)
Reply | Quote
Re: Top wishbone.


You dont want the rack ends too tight, just snug and well greased. It would not be good if one snapped off !!!!
12/18/2018, 5:53 pm Link to this post Send Email to HONDAPETE2   Send PM to HONDAPETE2
 
Slimboyfat Profile
Live feed
Blog
Friends
Miscellaneous info

Registered user

Registered: 11-2006
Posts: 129
Karma: 4 (+4/-0)
Reply | Quote
Re: Top wishbone.


Revisited my tracking settings and discovered the method I was using gave me flawed results.
Reset tracking using different method and found it to be toed-out by 13mm. Maybe this was contributing to my steering issues.
I've also taken on board the comment about inner track rod ends, which on my car, before stripping and adjusting were very loose allowing movement at the wheel, maybe I need to revisit those too.
Will update after my next road test.
12/22/2018, 2:54 pm Link to this post Send Email to Slimboyfat   Send PM to Slimboyfat
 


Add a reply

Page:  1  2  3 





You are not logged in (login)